Happy Burn’s Night to all our Scottish readers – wherever you are in the world – and all those Sassenachs who, like me, enjoy nothing more than tucking into a haggis with ‘neeps and tatties’, washed down with a ‘wee dram’!
This seems an ideal occasion to celebrate one of the Scottish units of the British Salonika Force – 10th (Service) Battalion, Royal Highlanders (Black Watch). Formed in Perth in 1914 the Battalion joined 26th Division (77th Brigade) and soon found itself far from the Highlands: on Salisbury Plain, in Bristol and Sutton Veny in Wiltshire. In September 1915 it sailed for France but, after just two months, it was off to Salonika where it remained until returning to the Western Front in June 1918.
As I suspected, the song that Andy gave us on 7 January – Salonika – has been going round and round in my head. It’s also been leading me down various rabbit holes on the internet. The lyrics are available on a range of websites, alongside some very earnest discussions about the meaning of the song, including some rather fanciful descriptions of the role of Salonika in the First World War: a supply base for the Gallipoli campaign. Really?
As a result of a remarkable piece of work researched and initiated by SCS Membership Secretary, Keith Edmonds, we are pleased to provide a new file to aid research and understanding of the Salonika Campaign.
The Trench Maps Indexis a .pdf file which lists approximately 8,500 place names from the Salonika theatre, in alphabetic sequence, together with their corresponding coordinates. The names, and their respective Easting/Northing, have been determined from the collection of maps available from the Society and show:
Place Name
The map from where the location reference (Easting/Northing) was taken
The map scale
The Easting and Northing and
The calculated, corresponding Latitude and Longitude.
Where a location reference has been provided on the respective map, the place’s location is shown in italicised blue text in the index, as in the following example.
An entry from the Trench Maps Place Names Index.
But here’s the thing… clicking on any name shown in blue text will load Google Maps at that locationas indicated by a red ‘pin’!
The location of Arthur´s Seat in Google Maps
This ability to locate campaign locations in Google Maps is a remarkable innovation made possible by the research begun by Keith leading to collaboration with Professors Clifford J Mugnier and Gábor Timár. As a result, Professor Timár presented a paper on the subject, Georeference of the Allied Trench Maps of the WW1 Salonika Front at the 16th ICA Conference, Digital Approaches to Cartographic Heritage at the Faculty of Geography, Babeş–Bolyai University, Cluj-Napoca, Romania on 22nd-24th September 2022. The co-authors of the paper are listed as Gábor Timár, Keith Edmonds, Clifford J. Mugnier.
In Episode 68 of Tales from the Battlefields (see previous post) the podcast starts with part of a song by Irish musician Jimmy Crowley. I was intrigued to find out more about the tune…
According to an article in The Irish Examiner the song was popular around the time of the First World War but had fallen out of use in later decades before being discovered by Crowley, “The jaunty ballad is sung from two different female perspectives — the first, a woman whose husband has enlisted in World War I, the title referring to the Greek city of Thessaloniki, which was home to a British military base. These women were known as ‘seperas’ as they were paid separation allowance by the British government when their husbands went off to fight. The other woman in the song is the wife of a ‘slacker’, the term given to men who did not join the army. The women in the song swap jibes and sprinkled through the song are references to Cork locations such as the Coliseum and characters including Dicky Glue, a well-known pawnbroker… It would have been popular as a street ballad up to the time of the Second World War. It is a tremendous song because it gives an insight into the lives of women around the time of the First World War. It kind of died out later, when ballads became uncool, because they were associated with the poor and uneducated. They would have started coming back into vogue with the rise of folk music in the 1960s.”
The song has since been recorded by ‘The Dubliners’ and even appeared on Later with Jools Holland in 2015 played by ‘Lynched’:
Lynched – Salonika – Later… with Jools Holland – BBC Two
‘X’ (formerly Twitter) occasionally throws up gems of information and new, to me at least, was the fact that in 1982, the Royal Court Theatre, London staged the play Salonika. How a post by someone I do not know suddenly appeared in my news feed is a mystery of the ‘X’ algorithm…
With a little digging, I discovered that the play was written by British author Louise Page, and explores the relationship between 84 year old Charlotte and her 63 year old daughter Enid. They have travelled to Salonika to visit the grave of Charlotte’s husband, Ben, a casualty of the Salonika Campaign many years earlier.
The play won a prestigious George Devine Award and has been produced in both the UK and the USA on several times since its premier – most notably with American actress Jessica Tandy in the role of Charlotte.
Perhaps the best introduction and overview is from the Bench Theatre and its production of 1987 which also gives a description of the Salonika Campaign in its programme notes:
The “Army of the Orient” that endured a monotonous and unglamourous [sic] war in Macedonia (1915-1918) was the “forgotten” army of World War I. Entrenched in the environs of Salonika, the army stagnated, unable to move and achieved nothing. The British War Committee wrote off the campaign as an ineffectual sideshow. The British public, reading no dramatic headlines in the press, was convinced that there was no fighting at Salonika – that it was a pleasant relaxing backwater of the war. The troops knew otherwise. The war for them consisted of weeks of inactivity, cooped up in inhospitable terrain and under the strain of constantly watching and waiting for the enemy, followed by brief and inglorious skirmishes. Their greatest enemies were sheer boredom and disease. Ten times as many British soldiers entered hospital with malaria as with wounds sustained in action. On 16 October 1917, one-fifth of the total British force – 21,434 men – were hospitalised as malarial cases. There was no hero’s return for the veteran of Salonika. And there is no public memorial in Britain to the men who served there.
I wonder if any of our members and readers out there have seen a production of Salonika and have any thoughts on it?
A highlight of the SCS Battlefield Tour of 2023 was a visit to the village of Mavroplayia. The village, named Karamudli back in the BSF’s day, was adopted by veterans of the Salonika Reunion Association between 1951 and 1968 under the Greek Red Cross Village Adoption Scheme. This is commemorated by a plaque now housed in the village heritage centre.
SRA Commemorative Plaque at Mavroplayia
The plaque reads:
1915 Mavroplayia 1968 British soldiers defended this village in the 1914-1918 war. The British survivors later became known as the Salonika Reunion Association and hearing, in 1950, that the village had met with adversity they sent relief from Great Britain to its fondly remembered peoples. Mavroplayia became a place of pilgrimage for many British ex-soldiers and nurses who had known it in their youth. Friendship with its fine peoples became closer and the help continued until 1968 when the Salonika Reunion Association had to close down. Its members to the end were proud that, in their time, the ancient friendship between Greek and Briton stood staunch for over 50 years.
During this bond of 16 years, the SRA sent tools, sewing machines, clothing, toys and much else to the village, which had suffered greatly during the Second World War and Greek Civil War. British veterans also funded repairs to the roofs of the church and school and the supply of piped water to the village.
Soon after the tour’s arrival, a deputation from the village, including the local priest, arrived and the SCS tour party was shown the interior of the church and the old school building, the latter now the containing photographs and objects, including the SRA plaque. The group was then shown a fountain, built in 1916 by French troops, which served as the village water source prior to the arrival of the SRA’s sponsored piped water system. The afternoon concluded with drinks and much conversation and singing with the tour group contributing to the funds for running the heritage centre.
Through its visit the SCS tour had reestablished a small link between Britain and Greece, one forged by the generous spirit of British Salonika Force veterans whose aim, well fulfilled, was to do something tangible to help the Greek people following a second global conflict and bitter civil war. The SCS will maintain this link going forward and aims to return during the 2024 battlefield tour with a commemorative gift for the village in the form of a Salonika Reunion Association standard for display in the heritage centre.
Wishing all our members, friends, their families and loved ones all the very best for a happy and healthy 2024!
Of course, for our Scottish members and friends, this is an extra special time of year. And thoughts of Scotland reminded me that in November (last year!) The Scotsman published an article Remembrance: The Scots-style memorial on a Greek hillside in which the author during a visit to the memorial at Doiran considers that, “If there was an intense feeling of Scotland on this walled-off Greek hill as we pushed open a wrought iron gate, it was because the site was designed by Sir Robert Lorimer (1864-1929). Lorimer had also designed the Scottish National War Memorial at Edinburgh Castle (commissioned in 1919 and opened in 1927) and many more worldwide.”
Tales from the Battlefields is a free podcast from battlefield guide and researcher Terry Whenham. It focuses on “the unheard stories of men who served on the Western Front during World War 1.”
However, in Episode 68 of the podcast, Terry interviews Chris Loader who travelled with the Society on the SCS Battlefield Tour in September this year. Chris describes the background to the campaign and his visit to the location where his two-times grandfather on his father’s side, Private Henry Loader of the 10th Hampshire’s, was mortally wounded in September 1918. I listened with a lot of interest to the story of Henry – and Chris’s research and visit – and I’m sure you will find it a worthwhile use of your time too. In my humble opinion of course!
You can listen to the podcast for free on Apple, Amazon Music, Spotify and directly from thispage.
Lembet Road Cemetery – final resting place of Henry Loader. Image from CWGC
I imagine BBC Radio Three’s long-running programme ‘Composer of the Week’ has looked at English composer, Ralph Vaughan Williams and his career, many times. I remember listening to a previous episode some time ago and being irritated as his First World War army service was glossed over and no mention made of his time with the BSF. I am pleased to say, though, that last week’s series – A Vaughan Williams Christmas – mentions Christmas 1916 which he spent beneath Mount Olympus with his 60th Division Field Ambulance unit. You can listen to the programme for a while longer online here:
Although Vaughan Williams apparently noted down Greek tunes, none is played in the programme, but you do get performances of his lovely seasonal music and symphonies, plus a full performance of his much-loved The Lark Ascending.
I can only think of one way to finish this post and that is with this Greek Christmas tune, which has featured in previous Christmas posts and featured in Aladdin in Macedonia – the first of the 85th Field Ambulance pantomimes:
… to all our members, friends and visitors. We thank you for your support over the year and look forward to you joining us for more online Salonika stories, faces and news.
Salonika Campaign Society, 1915-1918 